My sister and I went to the new Pompeii exhibit at the
Franklin Institute in Philadelphia, and while it was nice enough, I’m afraid I was
disappointed. The exhibit does give a very
clear picture of life in and around 79CE, mostly as enjoyed by wealthier Roman
citizens. There is a wide range of
everyday items, like pots and fishing gear, as well as some astonishingly
intricate gold and silver jewelry. All
of this is instructive and interesting, but all related to life. What the exhibit fails to convey is the awful
death these people suffered.
Those who know me well know that I wear a silver ring containing
a black piece of Vesuvius rock. I bought
this some 40 years ago when I visited Pompeii for real. The ancient city and its attendant volcano were
only a short bus-ride from the naval base at Naples, where my ship was
home-ported. I have tried and failed
many times to convey how absolutely eerie it was to walk around in those
deathly quiet streets. Such tourists as there were
spoke in hushed tones, partly because voices spoken aloud would echo through the empty
streets and shops. You could really feel
the ghosts of the departed population.
The Franklin Institute tries to convey the destruction and
terror, and largely fails. A short film
compressing an eruption lasting a day and a half into a few minutes was not
very convincing, although the animated pyroclastic flow at the end was quite
dramatic. People actually coughed on the
stage mist as though it were really dust.
But it was inadequate. I also
think that four were too few of the casts of the dead to really convey any
scale. Many thousands died.
The exhibit’s worth the price of admission, partly because you also
get general admission to the Franklin Institute itself, and can play with the
toys. But if you get the chance, go and see
the real thing. Here are four pictures I
took in my visit all those years ago.
This is the mosaic tile floor of the entryway to a residence, undoubtedly belonging to one of the wealthier residents.This is how people crossed the streets, which for the most part were muddy sewers. The breaks in the pathway were for wagons and chariots.
This is a sign painted on the wall. It might be a street name or the business name.
Finally, here is a shot down one of the streets. Dozens of similar street have been excavated, all in about the same state of destruction. The silence was palpable.
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