Thursday, August 15, 2013

ALASKA CRUISE - GLACIERS

More than anything else, my reasons for going on this cruise boil down to one word - glaciers.  Melting around the world at an alarming rate, glaciers are phenomenons of nature, remnants of the last ice age.  So old that the snows making up their lower layers fell many tens of thousands of years ago, they seem so solid yet they flow like rivers and (as I'm sure you've heard on countless NatGeo programs) have shaped the landscape around humans since we have been, well, human.  There are still some in Glacier National Park, but you might want to hustle if you want to see them; the lower 48 may be glacier-free in a decade.

So the excursion I booked well in advance of sailing was the helicopter visit to a glacier out of the port of Skagway, one of the more pricey choices at $350.  Now at the time I booked this cruise in January I weighed nearly 280 pounds, and there was a surcharge for passengers on this excursion weighing over 250 pounds.  Helicopters can lift but so much, after all, and the altitude experienced flying over the mountain passes would reduce load capacity, as the air is less dense.  I did manage to lose 30 pounds by the sailing date, and went very easy on the food for the first days of the cruise, but it was not quite enough.  Fully dressed, I weighed in (yes, they do weigh you on a baggage scale) at 259.  So I paid the $100 surcharge without a qualm or quiver.  I was getting in that helicopter!  Here are some shots taken as we made the ~15 minute trip from sea level to the Chillicothe glacier, flying over some mile-high passes in the process.








We were landed on the melting lower end of Chillicothe, where guides showed us around.


 
 
 
 The big ice wall is actually the side of another branch of Chillicothe; the section we were on is melting under it.  The group shot is (from left) Alexis' fiancé Eliot, brother-in-law Bob, niece Adrienne, nephew Adam, and me.  Alexis was supposed to come but chickened out.  You do have to watch where you step.  Glacial melt finds it's way into cracks in the ice and erodes channels called mulians.  This one was a couple of feet across and had a significant flow of water.




By the bye, if any of you get the chance to do this, take along an empty water bottle.  The melt water is the purest you'll ever taste.  The other thing to note is that I was over-dressed.  I had a sweatshirt and windbreaker, plus the life vest they provided (part of the flight is over water), and I was very warm.  Dress light.

 
 
 
In addition to the excursion, the ship made a trip into a relatively narrow fjord to visit the end of the Sawyer glacier.  This was one time I'm sure there  was someone at  the  wheel of the Jewel.  And the ship demonstrated it's maneuverability by rotating in a channel barely twice as wide as we were long.  I was hoping we'd see a calving (an iceberg dropping off the end of a glacier) but no such luck.


This guy was a long way from civilization.


The little dots are seals.
 
 




These shots of glacial melt rivers show how close the ship was to the fjord walls.


 

ALASKA CRUISE - THE SHIP

The original reason for this journey was that my sister called and asked if I wanted to go with her family on a cruise.  She has asked this question before but, since she lives in Florida and her cruises are to the Bahamas and such, I have always declined, not being much of a sun bunny, after all.  My favorite joke to tell, of course, is that when I take my clothes off and lie on the beach Greenpeace comes up and starts dousing me with buckets of water like a stranded beluga.  But this time she had an answer.  This time they were going to Alaska, and on Norwegian, a cruise line with one of the better reputations.  So I agreed and paid over two grand for an inside cabin, swallowing hard.  The Norwegian Jewel is about eight years old and very nice but not grandiose.  I didn't spend my time taking too many pictures of the ship, since they have professionals who can do that much better than I.  Here's a link to the website, my room was mid-ship inside. 

http://www.ncl.com/cruise-ship/jewel/decks/2/11#tab_detail

You can poke around on this site to see the layout and amenities.  Like all cruise ships, of course, it was literally awash in food.  There were, if I counted correctly, three main places included in the price: the Garden Café, which is actually a large cafeteria where the choices were staggering, and the Azura and Tsar's Palace, which were sit-down restaurant types where you would get essentially the same food as the Garden Café.  In addition there was a food line in the pool area where, weather permitting, you could get burgers and such.  They had a salmon bake out there one afternoon (it was Alaska, after all - salmon was on most menus).  And there was the Blue Moon, which had a normal menu during the day but offered a limited list of 'bar food' all night.  And yes, I did have need of it at 3am one morning.  There are also half-dozen or so 'specialty' restaurants, were you eat for an extra fee (both booze and soft-drinks are extra as well).  We went to the Japanese one for my nephew Adam's birthday, where they prepare the food in front of you with a little comedic song and dance.  The food was better than the entertainment, but it was a fun time regardless.  This is Adam.  He's an elementary school teacher in Florida and apparently a confirmed bachelor.  He's also the spitting image of his father.


Speaking of entertainment, there was a pretty good-sized theater in the forward section (the Starlight Lounge) where there was a pretty standard mix of shipboard shows.  We didn't have any headliners, and most of this didn't appeal to me, but I did watch one magician with excellent close-up magic skills and a patter filled with (somewhat) comedic innuendo, and a pair of remarkably flexible acrobats who did bits with the long curtains and big rings.  The female, by the way, was stronger than her well-muscled partner.  He would wrap the material around his wrists three and four times, while she did many of the same poses and tricks with a single wrapping.

The staff was uniformly efficient and polite.  There was the usual mix of Asian and Caribbean  nationalities, with about a dozen European officers.  Here is one of the most memorable - the Director of Food and Beverage Services.


His first name (can you say current events!) is actually Messiah, he's from Germany, and he got rather tired of being told how much he resembled David Suchet playing Agatha Christie's character Hercule Poirot.



 
By the way, the stewards had an odd trick; they would leave animal figures made from towels in the room when they made it up.  This was the most inventive example, an ape hanging from the ceiling vent. 


Now, there was a class (for a fee) in making this so-called toweligami, so maybe the creatures they left in our rooms were a kind of advertising, but they were fun none the less.

As a former Navy guy, there was one room I visited on a daily basis, and that was the observation room behind the bridge.  There were rarely more than three officers on the bridge, and not much to see in the way of action, but the observation room also had displays of the radar picture and the engineering station, which gave course, speed, rpms, etc.  A regular ship-geek's paradise.  These leviathans have a sophisticated computerized version of cruise control.  There was rarely anyone at the actual wheel when at sea; the ship drives itself most of the time.


Coming into and out of port, of course, we would have to have a local pilot aboard, and there was more action on the bridge.  But these ships are remarkably agile, and never needed to use tugboats.  They can quite literally pivot around their own centers, and can travel sideways as easily as fore and aft.  We would come into a harbor and rotate around so we were facing out, then sidle up to the pier as neat as you please.

A cruise is not the ideal environment for an old single guy.  Most passengers were families, and I would have had to be traveling in much more luxurious accommodations to be of any interest to the few single women aboard, all of whom were rather younger than I.  But if you can sit down and say hello, you'll make some friends.  There were Lemour, Peyton, and Sarah, all of whom loved to dance, Padmaja and Anita, who were hard to pry from their Indian travel companions, and Rosie and Jim from Sacramento .


Jim was the undisputed king of the Karaoke lounge, with a really good voice and a willingness to get up several times a night to display it.  Plus he's a definite romantic.  I'm sure one of the highlights of the cruise for Rosie is when he got her out on the dance floor and sang her a ballad (without the prompter) in front of an enthusiastic crowd.  When he heard I was retired he started thinking about his own, coming up in November.  It sure sounded like he'll be on pins and needles (hard to do when you're a bus driver) until then.

The ships visit the various ports in bunches, but don't actually travel together.  This is the Holland America ship following us out of Seattle.


Here is Mt. Rainier in the distance as we left port, and my first sunset at sea in over four decades.

 
 
 
Other posts will give details of the ports and the glaciers.

Tuesday, August 6, 2013

CHICAGO - ATTRACTIONS


CHICAGO – ATTRACTIONS

One of the principal features of Chicago, of course, is Lake Michigan.  The planners set aside huge stretches of lake-front for the people’s use.  Think of Battery Park in New York, but stretched all along the shoreline of Manhattan up to the 100’s on both sides; with beaches.


 

I was at this beach on a Monday and there were a fair number of boats anchored just off the beach, and there was some serious partying going on, with competing stereos booming across the water.  You can also see the Spirit of Chicago and another local cruise ship in the background in these photos.



 
One touristy thing to do is to visit the observation deck on the 103rd floor of the Willis Tower (formerly the Sears Tower).  Buildings are always competing as to which is tallest, and these seem to all involve a fight whether to include the TV towers and spires.  In any event Willis is some 1450 feet tall, or (there’s a calculator in the lobby for this) approximately 245 Larry Carpenters tall.  It wasn’t a very clear day, but here are some views from on high.




 
But the big attractions on this floor are called the Skydecks, which are glass rooms about four feet wide that project out of the side of the building, so that you appear to be standing on air.  It is a very weird feeling when you look down.  I’ve included a few different shots, including a girl doing a little impromptu acrobatics, and also a view of the Skydecks from the ground (they’re the tiny boxes you see near the top of the building.

 





Another big draw is Millennium Park, a large green space below the Chicago River, where rests what is perhaps the most famous sculpture ever - the Cloud Gate, more familiarly known as the 'bean'.  I first visited it around one AM (don't ask) and had to view it from outside the park, but I went back in the daylight.

 
 
This was a much more mind-bending experience than I anticipated.  As you walk under the sculpture, you are reflected at many angles.  The curved shapes made my head spin in a way that the Skydeck never did.  I believe I am in the big picture at least six times (I held my arm out at an angle to make it easier to spot myself).





Another neat sculpture is made of two huge glass blocks where images of ordinary Chicagoans are projected while water pours down on the other three sides.  There's a shallow pool between them that's very popular with the little ones.



The freakiest thing about this fountain is that the images (which are videos, not fixed) will occasionally appear to be spouting water (there's a fountain jet strategically placed on the area where the projection appears). 

Another sculpture in Millennium Park is actually the outdoor stage where the Chicago Pops and others play.  The huge shapes apparently are good for the acoustics.


Not all sculpture is so monumental, of course, and not all of it is in this one park.  Here are some examples.  The bronze is called 'crack the whip', and the bigger installation is made entirely of aluminum canoes.




Flowers also figure in sometimes, as in these two examples.



But I happened on the best attraction in Chicago quite by accident.  And it's free.  It's the Chicago Federal Reserve Bank.  There's a museum showing old styles of money, such as these.


 
But the best reason to visit here is this guy standing in front of the cube of one million one dollar bills.  His name is Jerry Nelson, and he gives the most lively presentation regarding the operation of the Fed.  He's full of amazing facts and figures, and sounds like a carnival barker, but he's actually a retired Fed futures analyst and can (and does) hold forth at length regarding inflation, the Euro zone, and the economy in general.